Archive for August, 2008

Truck stories: Georgia in 48hours/ Histoires de camions: la Georgie en 48heures

August 22, 2008

We hitched a ride with a Turk truck driver to Tbilissi. A few ks before the border many drivers were waiting for better news to enter Georgia. As we got closer to the capital more and more army trucks and tanks were spread at the edges of the city. We quickly got stopped by the police which told us that a bomb had explosed further north and that the road was closed. Our driver, while on his way to Azerbaijan, 3 days earlier got stopped in Gori by some “Apaza”, a rebel group that robs anyone who comes on its way. The group was waiting for trucks and civilians with guns and he had to pay a laissez passer of US$600, still a cheap price in comparaison to the majority.

We spent our 1st night in Georgia in a carpark, among many drivers and their trucks, the majority of them being Turks. All these men had been waiting a few days for the situation in Gori to mellow down but things were getting worst and they were then fearing to take the central road and get robbed by the “Apaza” or bombed by the Russians. Visibly none of them were willing to make a moove and the only option we had was to cycle the southern road that was going through the mountains. “Problem, problem” was all that was coming out of the drivers’ mouths as the cigarettes were chain smoked. We woke up early the following day and we found our men: 4 Turkish drivers who’s slogan was “Problem Niet!” had decided to drive through the mountains. We dropped our bikes on board, a taxi showed us the way out of town and we started the long ride across the mountain. We drove non stop for 13hours on steep rocky roads. The strongest truck had to pull up one of the truck which had burned all the gum that was on its tyres at the first hill. The expedition took 18hours, when we finaly arrived in Batumi we slept at the back of the truck and Yusuf, our amazing driver, got on the booze to celebrate.

Georgia s got some stunning landscapes, probably the best so far. The Turkish truck drivers took us along on an unforgetable journey. Yusuf blew my mind; even if communication stays limited some people will stay in our minds and hearts for ever.  

Azerbaijan: Fire Land/Terre de Feu

August 7, 2008

We started by drinking a bottle of Moldovian wine with the Cap’tain of the boat and by getting the full support of the passengers after getting searched: Azerbaijan, we love you already!!!

Nous avons commences en descendant une bouteille de vin Moldave avec le Capitaine du bateau et en recevant le support des passagers apres nous etre fait fouille: Azerbaijan, nous t aimons deja!!!

Baku, capital city of the country. City full of history and old architecture.

Baku, capitale du pays. Ville pleine d histoire et d architecture ancienne. 

The photo is crap, it was 4pm and the photographer was drank at that time of the day (an old Soviet tradition). Anyway it s an entire city on the sea that pumps oil 24/7. oooiiillll

La photo est mauvaise, il etait 16h et le photographe etait deja pompete a cette heure de la journee (une vieille tradition Sovietique). Bref, au loin il y a une veritable ville sur l eau qui pompe du petrole 24/24.

Oil

OIL!

Kazakhstan

August 7, 2008

Trains are great ways of travelling in Kazakhstan. Because the country is mainly step and the temperatures can get as high as 50 degrees we smoked it by train. We quickly turned out to be the main attraction of the trains and thus did some amazing meetings.

Les trains sont de bons moyens de transport pour traverser le Kazakhstan. Puisque le pays est majoritairement de la steppe et les temperatures peuvent atteindre 50 degres nous avons decides de tout faire en train. Nous sommes rapidement devenus l attraction du train et avons donc fait de nombreuses rencontres.

We all sleep in the same wagon, which normally is 60 persons but always get overloaded.

Nous dormons tous dans le meme wagon, ce qui normalement represente 60 personnes mais est toujours surcharge.

Buying a train ticket with a bicycle works this way (prendre le train avec un velo marche de la facon suivante):

price of a ticket for a distance of 1000km (prix d un ticket pour  une distance de 1000km): 3000Tt

price to put a bicycle in the luggage wagon (prix du velo dans le compartiment pour bagages): 750 Tt

price of the guy who ll put the bike on board (prix du garc qui va mettre le velo a bord): 300Tt

extra money for the bike to take the same train as the one you re in or not next week’s one (extra pour que le velo prenne le meme que toi et non pas celui de la semaine prochaine): 500Tt

Baksheesh for the man who speaks a little of English and helped you out but pretends that the money goes somewhere else (Baksheesh pour le garc qui parle un peu d anglais et nous a bien depane mais pretend que l argent va autre part que dans sa poche): 250Tt

Aral’sk, old fishing harbour of the Aral sea, now located 60km from the sea. Kids play around the shipwrecks while men dig up the ones that are under the sand with hope for the future. Over the past 2 years the sea has been rising and the population of Aral’sk has hope to start fishing within the next 10 years.

Aral’sk, ancien port de peche de la mer d Aral, aujourd hui situe a 60km de la mer. Les enfants jouent sur les epaves des bateaux alors que les hommes deterrent ceux qui sont sous le sable dans l espoir de pouvoir, un jour, vivre de la peche de nouveau (Depuis les 2 dernieres annees la mer d Aral remonte).

Besh Barmaq (5 fingers), traditional Kazakh dish that we shared with Abdurazak and his family. Abdurazak taught us lots about Kazakhstan. Here are a few Kazakh traditions:

Besh Barmaq (5 doigts), plat Kazakh traditional que nous avons partage avec Abdurazak et sa famille. Abdurazak nous a enseigne plein de chose sur son pays. Voila quelques traditions Kazakhs.

-When you are a kid you have to fight boys who don t come from your region to show them who is the boss. Quand tu est un garcon tu dois te battre avec les garcons venant d une autre region que la tienne pour leurs montrer qui est le chef.

After the wedding ceremony the bride has to live with her parent-in-law for 2 months, for them to make sure she knows how to cook and do the house work. Apres la ceremonie de marriage la mariee va vivre chez ses beaux-parents pendant 2 mois, pour verifier qu elle sait cuisiner et faire les differentes taches menageres.

Beat your wife and children if they make a mistake. Bat ta femme et tes enfants lorsqu ils font une erreur.

Your first boy child is the man’s parents one. Le premier enfant garcon est celui des parents du mari.

Trucks loaded with old metals get on board of the ferry to cross the Caspien Sea. They then travel down to Iran where they ll be recycled. Des camions remplis de vieux metaux embarquent a bord du ferry pour traverser la Mer Caspienne. Ils voyegent ensuite pour l Iran ou ils seront recycles.

Cyclists in force at Aktau’s harbour. Matt, far left, a British cyclist who just arrived from Baku with some bad impressions on the country; and Roi, far right, an Isreali cyclist who wanted to cross but got rejected at the last minute for not having registered at the immigration police. We got searched in front of all the passenger 30 minutes before to go on board. When we asked why they told us that ”for religious reasons they had to check our books and notebooks” It drove me crazy. After traveling 3 weeks through Kazakhstan with everyone claiming that there was full freedom of speech and religious tolerance in the country we got searched for religious reasons. The woman had nothing more to say than that it was for “what is going on in the world”.

Cyclistes en force au port d Aktau. Matt, a gauche, un cycliste anglais revenant de l Azerbaijan avec de tres mauvaises impressions sur le pays; et Roi, a droite toute, un cycliste Israelien qui voulait, comme nous, rejoindre Baku en ferry mais qui s est fait ejecter pour ne pas s etre enregistrer aupres de la police d immigration du pays a son arrivee. 30 minutes avant d embarquer nous nous sommes fait chercher devant tous les passagers. Quand nous avons demande la raison on nous a dit que “pour raisons religieuses ils devaient regarder tous nos livres et cahier sd ecriture”; ca m a rendue folle. Apres 3 semaines a travers le Kazakhstan avec tout le monde affirmant qu il y avait une liberte d expression et une tolerance totale dans le pays voila que nous nous faisons chercher pour raisons religieuses. La dame n a rien trouvee de plus a dire hormis que c etait pour “ce qui se passe dans le monde aujourd hui”.

Last days in China

August 7, 2008

Western end of the Great Wall of China (Jiayuguan), a little steep hey Margot?

Debut Ouest de la Grande Muraille de Chine (Jiayuguan), ca tire sur les jambes hein Margot?

Dunhuang- Every nice spot is a business opportunity that Chineses don t miss. The only way to get to the sand dunes for free is through a cemetry.

Dunhuang- Chaque endroit un peu joli est une opportunite de business que les Chinois ne loupent pas. Le seul spot gratuit pour atteindre les dunes de sable est a travers un cimetiere.

Santai, little spot of paradis where we stayed with a Ouighour family after a terrible 50km hill.

Santai, petit coin de paradi ou nous avons passes la nuit chez une famille Ouighour apres 50bornes de cote.

“Want some water? Go and get it yourself! “

“Tu veux d’l'eau? Va la cherche toi meme!”